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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.